Koji Shibata×Chisako Takashima

When it comes to refined tortoiseshell accessories, there is no match for Edo-bekko.

Takashima

By the way, around when did tortoiseshell crafting begin?

Shibata

Although there is no clear literature on that point, it is said that the craft originated in China in the 6th century. Around that time (the Asuka and Nara periods), biwa lutes, walking sticks and other artifacts made with tortoiseshell were supposedly brought to Japan as well and are kept in the Todaiji temple Shoso-in treasure repository. Tortoiseshell crafting was not brought to Japan until some time later, around the Edo period. During the period of national isolation enforced by the Tokugawa shogunate, the crafting that had been brought from China to Portugal was then supposedly brought to Japan as well by Portuguese traders arriving by ship in Nagasaki, Japan’s foreign trade port at the time. In that sense, Nagasaki is considered the origin of tortoiseshell crafting. Then, perhaps because of Japanese national disposition coupled with innate manual dexterity, the tortoiseshell crafting was further refined in Japan towards the creation of aesthetic products like artistic ornaments and Western clothing accessories. The tortoiseshell crafting skills that were brought to Nagasaki were made increasingly more precise and moved gradually eastward, with the eventual budding of skills for processing hairpin and other ornaments with tortoiseshell materials in the inner palace of Edo castle. That is why Edo (Tokyo) is the true center for tortoiseshell ornamental hairpins, obi ornaments, and other kimono accessories.

Takashima

So, it’s actually relatively new. And also surprising, because you would think that Kyoto would be the center for tortoiseshell products.

Shibata

Yes, customers often ask me if tortoiseshell ornamental hairpins and accessories should be bought in Kyoto, but, as I said, it’s actually Tokyo that was and still is the largest producer of ornamental hairpins, obi ornaments, and other tortoiseshell products related to Japanese tradition. Of course they are also made in other regions as well (like Kyoto, Osaka, and Nagasaki), but Tokyo was especially the best place for traditional Japanese tortoiseshell accessories in the Edo period, and remains so today.

Takashima

Hence the name Eddo-bekko.

Shibata

Yes. As evidence, the City of Tokyo has properly certified it as a traditional craft of Tokyo.

Takashima

What species of turtle is used for tortoiseshell?

Shibata

The hawksbill turtle that is a type of sea turtle. I don’t know if this is still the case, but in the past the turtles were used as food in Cuba. Tortoiseshells were the empty shells left over.

Takashima

But isn’t hawksbill turtle import banned under the Washington Convention?

Shibata

Yes, it is. So now we process bit by bit the stock that was brought to Japan before the import ban (import was banned in 1992). There is concern that, Japan’s stock will eventually run out if the import ban is not lifted. But right now there is a greater fear that we will run out of tortoiseshell craftspeople even before we reach the bottom of our stock. When either happens, the irreplaceable and invaluable traditional Japanese craft and culture that has been carefully passed down from generation to generation since the Edo period will come to an end.

Takashima

How many craftspeople do you work with now?

Shibata

They do not work exclusively for Kanameya, but we have about 20 to 30 craftspeople working for us. Most of them are seniors.

Takashima

So procuring materials and training craftspeople are both difficult right now. Still, I want this wonderful piece of Japanese culture to be passed down to future generations.

I want people to be impressed by their visit to Ginza.