Exploring Ginza’s Architecture　Vol. 1 Kyobunkwan-Seishokwan Building

Uino

Hello! Today, we are launching a new series – “Exploring Ginza’s Architecture.” I always feel anxious when I am starting something new.

Ogikubo

Ginza is home to many old buildings from the early Showa period, built after the Great Kanto Earthquake, but it is often difficult to tell from the façade when and how a building was built. I have been looking forward to engaging in this new series, since it will give me the opportunity to actually interview the relevant people to learn the story behind the buildings. Our first destination is a building that was built in 1933 (Showa 8). It is actually one of the buildings that I have always wanted to know more about

Uino

Really! Well, it is indeed one of the most outstanding pieces of architecture in Ginza! Shall we go on to introduce the Kyobunkan Shoten building that you are so excited about? So, what intrigued you so much?

Ogikubo

First of all, I have been curious about its name. For example, when you look it up on GoogleMap, it says “Seishokwan Building”, but when you look at it from the Ginza 3-chome intersection, it says “Kyobunkwan.” So, which is correct – Kyobunkwan Building or Seishokwan Building? A map published by the Geospatial Information Authority of Japan has both names on two separate buildings, but when you look at the building from outside, it looks like a single building. Yet, when you come to think of it, it could be two buildings attached together. Isn’t that curious?

Uino

That had never occurred to me…

Ogikubo

Well, to unravel the story, it looks like we will need to look back on the building’s history all the way to when it was constructed.

Uino

Interview relevant people would be helpful.

Uino

Hence we interviewed Mr. Mitsuru Watabe, CEO of Kyobunkwan and took some pictures of the building. Ogikubo-san, I am glad that the mystery was solved.

Ogikubo

Yes, the answer is that it is one building with a unique structure that divides Kyobunkwan and Seishokwan as if they were two separate buildings. It was designed that way from the beginning. That is why the name of the building is correctly: Kyobunkwan-Seishokwan Building.

Uino

Kyobunkwan was originally based in Yokohama. It was founded in 1885 (Meiji 18) by an American missionary to sell and publish Christian books.

Ogikubo

In the Meiji period, Yokohama was the gateway to Tokyo from overseas. It was also home to a Foreign Settlement from the end of the Edo period.

Uino

Later, the back office and store moved to Takekawa-cho, around today’s Ginza 7-chome, then to Ginza 3-chome, and finally to Ginza 4-chome, where it stands today. The company was originally called “Memi Zassho Kaisha (Methodist Publishing House)”, but after several changes, it has been known by the Japanese name “Kyobunkwan”.

Ogikubo

Japan’s first railway ran between Yokohama and Shimbashi, so Ginza also served as a gateway to Japan from overseas. A Foreign Settlement was established in Tsukiji as well, so Ginza must have been a very attractive place. Even back then, Kyobunkwan sold general books as well as publishing and selling Christian (Methodist) books.

Uino

When it moved here, they constructed a splendid four-story building. It was also mentioned that Kyobunkwan was not only a bookstore but also served as a distributor for Victor Records.

Ogikubo

But eventually, it is hit by….

Uino

Hit by…? Ah yes.

Ogikubo

It was hit by the Great Kanto Earthquake in 1922. The Kyobunkwan building survived the earthquake but was burnt down.

Uino

The current building was constructed after that.

Ogikubo

As they were able to expand their land, they invited the American Bible Society to jointly construct the new building. The Japan branch of the American and British Bible Societies eventually became the Japan Bible Society.

Uino

And that is Seishokwan.

Ogikubo

That is correct. Kyobunkwan is Methodist, a Protestant tradition, while Seishokan belonged to the American Bible Society. Although they were both Christian, they were a part of different organization. And who did they ask to design the building? Yes, it was famous architect, Antonin Raymond.

Uino

Raymond’s architecture includes St. Paul’s Catholic Church in Karuizawa and St. Alban’s Church in Shiba. In Ginza, his works included the Matsuzakaya Department Store and Sanyo Hall, which unfortunately no longer exist.

Ogikubo

Raymond designed the Kyobunkwan Building and Seishokwan Building, which were originally meant to be two separate buildings as an integrated piece of architecture so that they structurally composed one building but were divided inside.

Uino

I had never been conscious about that but now that you mention it, they are distinctly separated.

Ogikubo

After the interview, I went to check again. We tend to look at Kyobunkwan-Seishokwan Building from the corner of Matsuya and that is why we have a strong image of Kyobunkwan, given that Kyobunkwan faces Chuo-dori. However, if you view the building from Matsuya-dori, you see a different picture.

Uino

That is true. You can clearly see the border between Kyobunkwan Building and Seishokwan Building. It is the same building but they have different stories and are clearly distinguished from one another.

Ogikubo

And now that you mention it, it is very understandable that the building entrance is right in between the two buildings. They each have individual entrances but share an entrance hall.

Ogikubo

Kyobunkwan is on the left-hand side and Seishokwan is on the right. Same building but setting boundaries.

Uino

The stairs are interesting. Kyobunkwan and Seishokwan both have their own stairs, and the elevators are separately installed on both sides. It is like an example of convenient two-generation housing.

Ogikubo

And when you get off the elevator, once again you find yourself in a shared elevator hall. It was a discovery that although they have drawn a clear line between themselves, the building is integrated and shared.

Uino

I believe that the fact that building has been maintained for such a long time owes to the significant investments made by the owners. This “two-in-one” structure has surely contributed to making it possible.

Ogikubo

I believe so too. Although you often do not realize it unless someone mentions it, the building was constructed in 1933 (Showa 8). That means it has been used for more than 90 years. The relief panel in the entrance hall dates back to its construction. It is one of the architectural developments in the recovery from the earthquake

Uino

This time, we were introduced to other traces of the building’s origination that is not usually open to the public. Yet, what repeatedly amazed us listening to Mr. Watabe was the fact that the building is so strongly structured that it can pass considerations under current Anti-seismic Structure Standards.

Ogikubo

Yes, this building also survived World War II.

Uino

After the Great East Japan Earthquake, the Anti-seismic Structure Standards were strengthened and buildings along Ginza’s Chuo-dori had to take measures for compliance. Some buildings underwent reinforcements; others were reconstructed. However, this building was almost fully in compliance with the updated standards as it was. What a sturdy design!

Ogikubo

It was a valuable experience to be able to see the maintenance facilities that are closed to the public. They have elevated the floors and lowered the ceilings in the building in order to accommodate cables; yet, it is still spacious enough that its does not feel as if the ceiling is closing in on you. This must be due to the excellence of the original design.

Uino

That is right. And it was also fascinating to know that that the system installed back then to send letters is still being utilized.

Ogikubo

The building was designed so that letters and documents could be sent out from each floor. Since we use network communication instead of exchanging paper documents today, cables were installed in the hollow duct that connects all the floors and come out of the letter slots.

Uino

Even as times changes from an analog era to the digital era, they are so dedicated to covering the same task. The stairs also continue to serve the same role as before. The upper floors have been renovated but some parts of the stairs remain the same and are still working!

Uino

It is a little unfortunate that the tower has disappeared from the rooftop. Let us have a look at the model of the building at the time of construction that we were saw in the meeting room.

Uino

There used to be a fine tower on both buildings. Raymond valued towers as a part of a building’s appearance that reminded one of a place of prayer.

Ogikubo

It seems that the towers were taken down during the high economic growth period in order to install advertisement boards. In a way, it could have been an inevitable decision since the ad was for Victor, whom they represented.

Uino

Around this time, Kyobunkwan Bookstore, which also carried foreign books, was on the second floor, and the first floor had a bank and restaurant. The bookstore remains on the second floor. The restaurant tenant was Fuji Ice, which had a leading-edge soda fountain. I wish I could visit Kyonbunkwan back then!

Ogikubo

My thoughts exactly. The restaurant sounds so fascinating. How wonderful it would be to have lunch and dessert as it was served then! Now let us look at the building from the outside once again. When you view the building from Matsuya-dori, you can recognize traces of the tower foundation.

Uino

Some parts have not changed while other parts have changed dramatically, and both elements coexist in harmony, just the way two distinct characters came together to establish this building.

Kyobunkwan-Seishokwan Building stands on the corner of Ginza Chuo-dori and Matsuya-dori. This time of year, visitors can enjoy shopping books for gifts and Christmas tree ornaments.