Visit Shrines

Visit Ginza’s Shrines Vol. 17 Toyoiwa Inari Shrine

2024.02.01

Ginza has an established reputation for its hospitality. This cannot be maintained simply by the number of facilities or popular stores. It is about how much people care about how visitors enjoy their time there.

銀座七丁目に鎮座する豊岩稲荷神社。資生堂パーラーの近くにある。 — Toyoiwa Inari Shrine in Ginza 7-chome

Uino: Ogikubo-san, were you aware of Toyoiwa Inari Shrine?
Ogikubo: Actually, I once passed by it in 2017 by chance. I was so surprised to find an Inari Shrine here, and took a picture of it, which I discovered on my iPhone.

豊岩稲荷初訪問時に、次はちゃんと参拝しようと撮っておいた写真。 — Picture taken on the last visit to Toyoiwa Inari Shrine
with the hope of paying a dedicated visit next time.

Uino: You are indeed a town walking expert. I am surprised that you already have a picture of it. Did you pay a visit, too?
Ogikubo: Unfortunately, it was already dark when I passed by. I am reluctant to visit a shrine for the first time at night. I did visit it a little time later. How about you?
Uino: Toyoiwa Inari happens to be the first Inari Shrine in Ginza that I became aware of and visited.
Ogikubo: It seems quite unusual that the first visit to an Inari Shrine would be to Toyoiwa-san when there are so many other Inari Shrines facing the street in Ginza. Did you come straight to Toyoiwa Inari?
Uino: The shrine was not my main destination. I was still a student then and I would only come to Ginza on my own occasionally to buy imported stationery at Sony Plaza. I had heard from my friend’s sister that there was an Inari Shrine that took care of women.
One day, I was having an exciting time shopping in Ginza when I recalled the story. Then it hit me that I needed to visit the shrine so that I could date the love of my life!
Ogikubo: How did it go?
Uino: To be honest, I was a bit terrified and shocked. I was not so familiar with shrines then and it felt so secretive. I remember putting my hands together feeling as if I had been bewitched by a fox. I guess it was not the place for a young boy collecting fancy stationery. I was not ready for shrines yet.
Ogikubo: Toyoiwa Inari sits in a unique location. You find it at the end of a small path in between two buildings. It does feel like a secret place. Anyone who comes here for the first time will surely wonder if they are allowed to walk through.
Uino: However, I think that is why it has the power to make wishes come true.
Ogikubo: When you look closely, there are two approaches to the shrine. One is from Hanatsubaki Dori. This may be easy for people shopping at Shiseido to find. The other approach is from Suzuran Dori. I wonder if this one is the main approach.

四角く囲ったところが参道。右側が花椿通り、左側が鈴らん通り。 — The approaches are enclosed in white squares.
Hanatsubaki Dori is on the right, and Suzuran Dori, on the left.

Uino: I believe so. Toyoiwa Inari’s front shrine is in the building facing Suzuran Dori and the shrine office is on the basement floor of this building.

豊岩稲荷神社の表参道。その横にある階段を降りると社務所がある。 — The main approach to Toyoiwa Inari Shrine.
The shrine office is located downstairs.

Ogikubo: This small Inari Shrine has an office?
Uino: Yes. This Inari Shrine has been here since the Edo period. It is therefore said that neither the shrine nor its office have moved since then

銀座七丁目は江戸時代は竹川町だった — Ginza 7-chome used to be Takekawa-cho during the Edo period.

Ogikubo: That is why the shrine pavilion looks like it is locked in the corner of the building.

ビルの間を入っていくと、豊岩稲荷神社の社殿がある。 — When one walks through the passage between the two buildings, Toyoiwa Inari Shrine can be found at the end.

ビルの一角だが、きちんと屋根もあり、神社の社殿としてデザインされているのがわかる。 — Although it is in the corner of the building,
it is built in the design of shrine architecture.

Uino: If you take a close look, you can see that a piece of shrine architecture with a roof has been integrated into the building.
Ogikubo: I see. There is a panel about its history on its side. It says that the shrine has been worshiped as a deity for fire prevention and romance. It was built by Yasuda Sakubei, a liegeman of Akechi Mitsuhide who fought in Honnoji-no-Hen. Inari Shrines are known to protect people from fire but it is very rare for them to be deities of love and romance.
Uino: Now let us visit the shrine office. Since the pavilion and office on the basement floor belong to the shrine, they allowed the construction of the building on condition that the shrine would not be moved.
Ogikubo: Looking from the outside, it looks like the office is located under the pavilion. It is impressive that that so many people come to get their pilgrimage stamp books stamped when the office is almost hidden downstairs.
Uino: It also sells good luck charms. People who purchase good luck charms here always look very satisfied. The colors and design of the charms are occasionally changed in accordance with the timing. It is a very thoughtful gesture that lets us feel their warm hospitality.
Ogikubo: It is quite impressive.
Uino: Toyoiwa Inari Shrine receives a lot of publicity. It is often introduced on TV as a shrine that helps the establishment of good relationships and ties, so it receives many visitors inspired by the TV coverage. It helps not only romantic relationships but also various ties; and therefore, people tell stories of family members recovering from sickness and of welcoming good employees.
Ogikubo: I see. So, many people are inspired to come here to get a good luck charm after seeing it on TV or in guidebooks. The fact that it is near Shiseido may also be the reason why there are so many female visitors.

このように参道を奥に入って参拝する人が引きも切らない。 — People constantly go in one after the other.

Uino: Today, I have special permission to visit the main shrine. Let us go.
Ogikubo: The lion head is enshrined here.
Uino: Around here, Namiyoke Inari Shrine also enshrines a lion head so perhaps the Shishimai was performed here as well.
Ogikubo: Having protected the community from so long ago, the shrine has a firm presence here, even if it is hidden in between buildings.
Uino: Since my first encounter with Toyoiwa Inari Shrine was quite shocking, I had imagined that it was a powerful and scary deity, but I learned today that it was indeed not.
It is more like the madam of a Japanese-style hotel who makes sure each visitor is happy based on her encompassing spirit and experience. Yet, she bears a sense of pride. This may be why we feel that we should come determined and most politely when we visit to make a wish.
Hospitality is not just about giving. As guardians of Ginza’s Inari Shrines we should all share this acknowledgement. I hope that based on this notion, Ginza will continue to be a town that builds good ties with those who visit.

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